How I Learned to Make Perfume

Personal Letter · A note from the creator

How I Learned to Make Perfume

No chemistry degree, no perfumery school, no class, no mentor. Just curiosity, a lot of mistakes, and the long way around.
Jakarta · June 2026

Nobody taught me to make perfume. I have no degree in chemistry, I never went to a perfumery school or sat in a single class, and for years I had no mentor, no teacher, not one person around me who knew how any of it worked. Everything I know I taught myself, mostly badly at first, by doing the wrong thing for a long time until it slowly turned into the right one. This is how it actually happened.

Curiosity · 2016–2017

It started with wanting more

It began the way most of it begins, with curiosity. I fell for fragrance as a wearer first, chasing samples and decants, smelling everything I could get my hands on. This was 2016, 2017, and the local scene then was a fog. No information, no education, nobody making content that explained anything. If you were curious here, you were on your own.

Trial by error

The wrong way, the hard way

So I did it the wrong way, the hard way, which was the only way open to me. I mixed essential oils with no idea what I was doing. I once crushed chocolate into a bottle of perfume just to see what would happen. Then came the era of tutorials that taught you to make perfume with vodka as your solvent, and I followed those too, proud of results that, looking back, were terrible. None of it really worked. All of it taught me something.

The books

The ones I was not supposed to have

Then I found the books, illegal copies of them, the ones by Mandy Aftel and Elena, passed around because there was no other way to read them here. That was the first time things started to make sense. I kept experimenting with whatever was possible: twisting existing perfumes, working with fragrance oils, simple blends of two or three essential oils. Small and clumsy, but for the first time I could feel the logic underneath.

Aromachemicals

YouTube, and the building blocks

YouTube lessons taught me about aromachemicals, the synthetic building blocks the real houses are built on, and I started mixing them with essential oils almost at random, just to find a scent that interested me. Somewhere in all that repetition, it began to come naturally. The dots started connecting on their own. I would learn one new material and it would quietly explain three others I already had.

The forums

Reading a fragrance backwards

From there I found the forums, where people shared their formulas, and I learned what GC-MS was, the analysis that breaks a finished perfume down into its parts. I taught myself to read a fragrance backwards, to see what it was made of and why. The internet was my school, taught by strangers who will never know they were teaching me.

Going deep

Exotic materials, and a still that failed

Later I fell deep into the artisanal side, the rare and exotic naturals, and I went as far down that road as I could. I tried distillation and failed miserably, more than once. So I learned again. That is the whole pattern, really: try, fail, read, try again, and never stop. Most of the fragrances I have made were not born out of mastery. They were born out of learning, out of discovery, out of not knowing something and chasing it anyway.

“The internet was my school, taught by strangers who will never know they were teaching me.”

There is one part I still do not understand. The thing I am genuinely good at, the one thing that was never hard, is translating a vibe, a memory, a feeling into a fragrance. That part I cannot explain, because I never learned it. It was simply there. Everything else I clawed my way toward, slowly and badly and stubbornly. That one thing arrived on its own, and I have stopped questioning it.

I should be fair about one thing, because all of this can read like a romance about the hard road. When I started in 2016, the choice barely existed here. There were no classes, no courses, no mentors within reach. Self-taught was not a philosophy, it was the only door open. That has changed. Today the opportunities and the classes are everywhere, a search away, and someone starting now could be trained in a year where it took me several. I do not pretend the long way was noble. The two roads are simply different.

Two paths
The same craft, learned two ways. Tap to compare.
How you learn
Trial, error, the internet, and years of doing it wrong until it comes right.
What you gain
Intuition built from the ground up, and a freedom nobody handed you.
The risk
You reinvent the wheel, slowly, and inherit blind spots you cannot see.
Where it wins
Nobody told you what was impossible, so you tried it anyway.
How you learn
A curriculum, mentors, and a far shorter road to competence.
What you gain
Rigour, technique, and the hard-won conventions of the craft.
The risk
You learn the rules so well that you forget they were ever allowed to break.
Where it wins
Nobody lets you waste years on a problem already solved.

But here is what I have come to believe, and it is the reason I tell any of this. Neither path makes you a creator. Training can produce a flawless technician who never makes anything that feels like anything. Self-teaching can produce a lifetime of confident mistakes. What separates creation from mere making is not where you learned it. It is whether you are willing to be wrong on purpose, and to keep going anyway.

I am the kind who embraces imperfection. Not as an excuse, but as a method. I would rather release something alive and a little flawed than something correct and dead, and then improve it, and improve it again, for as long as I am here. The training I never had, I am still giving myself, one bottle at a time. That, in the end, is the only school that matters.

Best regards,
the creator
Harum Oleh Memori
Fragrance, through memory