A hundred raw materials to begin — two hundred and fifty when you're ready — with the anatomy of finished formulas and the laws they keep.
100 or 250 raw materials · 17 olfactive families · 9 classic structures · 12-hour drydown
Chapter I — The Bench
Compose
Tap materials into a blend, set each share, and read the structure back — pyramid, drydown, families, longevity, and the IFRA lines you may not cross.
The Materials
Start with a hundred essential materials — switch to Advanced for the full rack of 250. Tap to add, or search.
100 raw materials — beginner rack
Your Composition
Set each material's share, or start from a classic structure.
Nothing yet — choose a material, or start from a template.
Structure
Top
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Heart
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Base
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Drydown — first 12 hours
0h3h6h9h12h
TopHeartBase
Concentration
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extrait max 35%
Balance
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Longevity
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Olfactive families
IFRA watch
The read
How it will smell
A teaching space. Percentages are shares of a finished fragrance, simplified to show structure rather than a usable formula. IFRA flags are approximate Category 4 (fine fragrance, on skin) values from the 51st Amendment — always consult the official IFRA Standards before formulating. Three referenced relatives are fully prohibited and excluded: Lilial, Lyral (HICC), and atranol / chloroatranol.
Chapter II — Anatomy
One formula, laid open
An amber accord at eau de parfum strength — forty-one entries on a working sheet, from solvent to trace. The structure is lesson enough.
Tap a band — or a row below — to isolate it
0255075100 parts
Solvent & diluent32.9the sheet's largest entry is not a scent at all
A vanilla crystal17.6one molecule carries the amber's entire sweetness
First creamy wood16.1a synthetic sandalwood — milky, wide, persistent
Second creamy wood13.5its darker sibling, laid underneath for depth
Resins & balsams8.4benzoin, labdanum, incense — the amber's shadow
The middle voices6.4everything else that rises above one percent
The trace tail5.1thirty-two entries below 1% — the finishing work
The full formula — a third of the sheet is not a scent at all.
47parts in three
One vanilla and two creamy woods are nearly half the sheet — over two-thirds of the oil once solvent is set aside. The amber is three materials; the other thirty-eight are its tailoring.
33parts solvent
A third of the formula is solvent. Concentration is a craft decision, not a virtue — dilution is where a dense accord finds room to breathe.
32whispers
Most of the list is traces below one percent — smoothing a transition here, roughening an edge there, never once announcing themselves.
Six working structures, each carrying the vibe of one great accord. Open a study to see inside its sheet — then sketch its skeleton at the bench.
five largest materialsthe middletraces under 1%
No. 01Amber — vanilla over creamy woods
Three ideas, forty coats
One vanilla crystal and two creamy sandalwood molecules carry forty-seven parts of the hundred; the other thirty-eight entries only dress them. Find your triad before your fortieth material.
41materials47parts in three32traces
Inside the sheet — parts of 100
Solvent & diluent32.9
A vanilla crystal17.6
Creamy santal molecule I16.1
Creamy santal molecule II13.5
Benzoin resinoid3.7
A third santal cream3.4
Labdanum absolute3.0
Incense resinoid1.7
32 traces under 1%5.1
No. 02Fresh Tea — jasmine over bergamot
Transparency is a material
A tea poured over citrus. One radiant jasmine molecule stands at a third of the entire sheet — the lightness everyone praises is a single, enormous dose. Sheer is built, not watered down.
37materials34parts, one molecule28traces
Inside the sheet — parts of 100
A radiant jasmine molecule34.0
Solvent14.0
Bergamot12.0
A clean white musk11.2
A powdery macro-musk10.0
Violet ionone6.6
Lavender facet3.0
Sweet orange2.2
28 traces under 1%6.0
No. 03Smoky Woods — vetiver twice over
One wood, told twice
A smoky wood at extrait strength. A natural root-wood oil and its synthetic echo stand shoulder to shoulder at sixty-three parts: the natural gives truth, the molecule gives reach.
53materials63parts in two woods43traces
Inside the sheet — parts of 100
A transparent cedar-amber haze32.0
Vetiver, natural31.0
Solvent7.2
A radiant jasmine molecule6.0
A fruity musk3.7
A spicy musk-wood2.3
Lavender facet2.3
43 traces under 1%11.2
No. 04Vanilla Oriental — a hundred whispers
Complexity lives in the tail
One hundred and three entries, seventy-eight of them under one percent — yet together those whispers weigh a fifth of the formula. Complexity is a crowd that never shouts.
103materials78traces21parts of whisper
Inside the sheet — parts of 100
A transparent cedar-amber haze7.7
Ethyl vanillin7.4
Vanillin7.0
A clean white musk6.6
A creamy santal molecule4.9
A radiant jasmine molecule4.5
Heliotropin4.2
Solvent3.9
78 traces under 1%20.7
No. 05Classic Chypre — moss, musk, bergamot
The smallest voice is remembered
A chypre in twenty-three entries — and the fruit note at its centre is barely three parts of a hundred. The signature is not the scaffold, and a great structure can be short.
23materials52parts in two3.2parts of fruit
Inside the sheet — parts of 100
A clean white musk30.0
Bergamot22.5
A powdery amber-musk8.3
A woody violet7.5
Oakmoss absolute7.0
A santal-amber wood4.0
A peach accord3.2
Nutmeg3.0
7 traces under 1%2.0
No. 06Rose Oriental — bloom on dark wood
The rose stands on wood
A grand rose oriental. Behind the bloom sit a dark earthen wood near a third of the oil and a radiant amber molecule beneath it. The flower is the smallest part of the flower — build the ground first.
50materials29%of the oil, one wood40traces
Inside the sheet — parts of 100
Solvent48.3
Patchouli, natural15.0
A mineral ambergris molecule10.0
A sweet powder musk8.7
A woody violet5.0
A clean white musk2.5
Rose alcohols1.4
40 traces under 1%5.2
Shares are of the full formula, solvent included — the structures speak for themselves.
Chapter IV — Laws of the Bench
What the corpus keeps repeating
Patterns that repeat across forty-eight complete working formulas on the atelier's bench. Not rules — habits of the finished.
Tap a law to see all forty-eight formulas behind it
I
The sheet is longer than the pyramidtap for the corpus +
A real formula is not three tidy tiers. The median composition runs fifty-three materials; the shortest of the great ones, twenty-three; the most ambitious, one hundred and three.
53materials, median
All forty-eight compositions, sorted by length — 23 on the left, 103 on the right. The terracotta bar is the median.
II
Few carry the manytap for the corpus +
Whatever the length of the sheet, the five largest entries carry about sixty-three of its hundred parts. Everything after them is fit and finish.
63parts in five
The share carried by each composition's five largest entries — from a third to nearly ninety percent. Median 63.
III
The tail whisperstap for the corpus +
Seven of every ten entries sit below one percent — together barely seven parts of the formula, yet they are the difference between finished and flat.
7/10entries under 1%
The fraction of each sheet's entries sitting under one percent. In most compositions, most of the list is whisper.
IV
One material leadstap for the corpus +
The single largest material is typically a fifth of the sheet — at times half of it. Finished formulas are unafraid of dominance.
22%median lead share
The largest single entry in each composition. One quiet formula leads with eight percent; one brazen one, with half the sheet.
A lens, not a rulebook. These laws only describe how these compositions happened to be built — learn them at the bench, then break them beautifully.