Sartorial

Harum Oleh Memori · cloth and scent · edition one

Plate I · Malioboro, after the last call

A wardrobe is a memory you can put on.

We have spent four years writing down what a smell can hold. A street that grew up. A grandmother's kitchen. The train at six in the evening.

Now we are asking the same question of cloth.

Sartorial is the house's clothing arm. It does not make collections and it does not follow seasons. It releases editions: one garment and one fragrance, made for the same memory, named for the same place, and issued together in a fixed and numbered batch. When the batch is finished, the edition closes. Nothing is reprinted.

The first four editions

Proposed · 2026 · batch sizes indicative

A man walking on a Sunday street in Cipete

Édition 01

Cipete · Jakarta Selatan

Gunawarman

The coat for a street that used to be houses.

Named for the road that changed its mind. Once a quiet residential quarter, now a street people travel across the city to be seen on. The coat is cut long enough to read as intention and loose enough to walk in, in camel wool that dulls exactly the way the fragrance does: bergamot first, then cardamom, then leather that stays until evening.

L22-CAMEL#A86B2E · garment dyed to the fragrance code

Garment

Single breasted coat, below knee, unstructured shoulder

Cloth

Camel wool 480gsm, cupro lining, horn buttons

Fragrance

Sartorial Gunawarman, 50ml extrait

Batch

60 pieces, individually numbered

Issued with

Numbered card, lot register entry, the original essay printed on one folded sheet

Édition 02

The study at dusk

Kabuto

Darkness, held in balance.

There is a Japanese way of treating the dark: not as absence but as something arranged. Ink, cedar, an oiled blade in a drawer, tea gone cold with dignity. The garment is the atelier coat, high collared and long, in wool that refuses to catch light. Amber shows only in the stitching, which is the only place the fragrance shows its warmth as well.

L05-SUMI#B3752B · amber thread on matte black

Garment

Atelier coat, standing collar, cloth ties, no hardware

Cloth

Matte black wool 380gsm, amber contrast stitch

Fragrance

Chypre Kabuto, 50ml extrait

Batch

40 pieces, individually numbered

Issued with

Numbered card, indigo cloth wrap, the essay printed on one folded sheet

A commuter train passing through Manggarai

Édition 03

Manggarai · the 17:42

Senja

The shirt that has already had a day.

Shirt damp, shoes dusty, the sky the colour of tea with too much sugar in it. This edition refuses to be new: the oxford is washed before it is sold, so the first wear is the fiftieth. Sold untucked, sleeves meant to be rolled twice, and finished with a small amber stitch at the second buttonhole, which is the hour the light turns.

L12-AMBER#E0812F · one stitch only, at the second buttonhole

Garment

Oxford shirt, boxy, pre washed, long tail

Cloth

Cotton oxford 150gsm, garment washed four times

Fragrance

Sunset In Jakarta, 50ml extrait

Batch

120 pieces, individually numbered

Issued with

Numbered card, the essay printed on one folded sheet

Édition 04

Saturday night, getting dressed

Malam Minggu

Twenty minutes of dressing before going nowhere.

A father buttons a shirt while a record plays, trumpet kept low, ice in a glass, and for twenty minutes the living room is a club in a city nobody in the house has visited. The garment is that shirt: silk, cut narrow, made to be tucked. It is the only edition finished with a scented lining, so the fragrance is in the cloth before it is on the skin.

L06-OR#C39953 · old gold, at the placket

Garment

Silk shirt, narrow cut, camp placket, gold thread

Cloth

Sandwashed silk 19mm, scented inner facing

Fragrance

Miles Dewey Davis, 50ml extrait

Batch

50 pieces, individually numbered

Issued with

Numbered card, the essay printed on one folded sheet, one 7 inch record sleeve

The method

Four rules, and no seasons.

One

Named, never described

An edition takes the name of a place or a person, never an adjective. Gunawarman is a road. Kabuto is a way of holding darkness. The name is the shortest possible version of the essay, and the essay always existed before the garment did.

Two

Numbered, and closed

Every edition has a fixed batch, individually numbered, recorded in the same lot register the house already keeps for its artisan releases. When it is finished it is finished. Restocking would make the number a decoration.

Three

The colour is not chosen

Each fragrance has carried its own colour code since its first page was written. That code is the dye card. The garment is coloured by the fragrance, which means no edition can be designed before its scent exists.

Four

Cloth before logo

Weight, mill, weave and finish are published; the mark is not. If a garment needs a name across the chest to be recognised, the cut has not done its work. What is printed instead comes from the archive: a lot number, a frequency, one line of a letter.

The dye register

Twenty five codes · fixed since first publication

Below the editions

Open stock · not numbered

The anchor

My Favorite Things

Plain white, 240gsm, boxy, double stitched, a woven label inside and nothing printed outside. The perfumer's own everyday, and the one garment that never closes.

The system

Frequency tees

A small mark at the chest, and on the back a station from the house radio: 90.7 FM, Senja, the ride home at golden hour. Dyed to that scent's code. Released three at a time.

The specimen

Note pyramid

Top, heart and base set as a typographic block, the way a laboratory prints a specimen sheet. No illustration anywhere, which is exactly what keeps it from looking like merchandise.

The secret